By Qiqi Chen

These scenes are no longer surprising Svend anymore, “There is always so much food in the dumpster, even though they actually can sell it at half price to avoid throwing.” However, as the People’s Kitchen exclusively cooks for vegetarians, they generously share this meaty bounty with fellow volunteers.

Returning to the People’s Kitchen, Svend initiates the process of sorting and washing the rescued food. A whole bucket of discarded yet perfectly edible carrots, 8 boxes of cream cheese, and an array of fruits find their way onto the table. Svend gestures towards a partially blackened carrot, illustrating the paradox of waste in a developed nation. He remarks, “This is the negative side in a developed country – they discard food due to minor damage. After peeling, these carrots are no different from those on supermarket shelves.”

Diligent volunteers immerse themselves in the bustling rhythm of the kitchen, each undertaking a unique culinary task—from expertly chopping vegetables to crafting vibrant salads and delectable cakes. With precision and care, they meticulously attend to the acquired provisions, ensuring that only the freshest and most delectable portions remain. As the meal concludes, the volunteers swiftly share the bounty of the day’s discoveries. Nothing goes to waste—leftover portions from the communal feast find purpose as take-home treasures, allowing the flavors and warmth of the communal kitchen to linger into the next week.

A Community’s Culinary Evolution

People’s Kitchen as a community-driven initiative, has been flourishing since its inception in 2010. The brainchild of Freja and Nana, who stumbled upon a surplus of food during their dumpster-diving, the People’s Kitchen was born out of necessity and a desire to combat food waste. Svend, a dedicated volunteer who has been involved in this event for more than 13 years. He believes that there is no hierarchy here, with the big and open kitchen, people can meet and talk with each other. “We usually have volunteers from different countries, which enriches the styles of the food we make.” He says. 

The common area in Beboerhus. Photo: Beboerhus website homepage

Breaking the Stigma

Addressing the stigma associated with dumpster diving, Svend acknowledges that newcomers may initially feel hesitant. However, he emphasizes the importance of transparency, with volunteers openly discussing the origin of the ingredients and educating participants on safe practices. The community’s goal is not only to combat food waste but also to create a space where everyone feels welcome.

While dumpster diving remains at the core of their food sourcing, Svend emphasizes the community’s commitment to education. Volunteers not only share their findings but also impart knowledge on proper cleaning and storage techniques.

“Usually, you cannot gain all the ingredients that you want, trying to make a replacement is one of the important lessons you need to learn here.” Svend says.

During the peak times, the team has successfully fed gatherings of up to 60 people. Reflecting on the ebb and flow of volunteers, Svend candidly acknowledges that recent participation has dwindled. He says, “To be honest, every week I am hopeful that more people can join the kitchen. However, I find myself disappointed at times, as sometimes it’s just me and Benjamin cooking together. ”Svend describes it as a cycle: “individuals initially join the kitchen to meet diverse people and socialize. But with fewer attendees, some may choose not to return for subsequent sessions. ”

On the other side of Aarhus, someone took the cause a step further and turned it into a regular daily event. Skraldecaféen in Sydhavnen is a lively hub of multicultural collaboration. Here, against the backdrop of cheerful melodies, people hailing from Denmark, Bangladesh, Afghanistan, and Turkey congregate to share stories and culinary skills. The kitchen, abuzz with the animated chatter of retirees and the enthusiastic support of volunteers. As the clock strikes twelve, an array of dishes, including salad, pasta, soup, and coffee, materializes in the tent, prepared with care for the approximately 50 individuals seeking solace in a warm midday meal. This is not just a lunch spot; it’s also a place where diversity finds unity in the universal language of shared meals.

Volunteers making food in the kitchen. Photo: Qiqi Chen

We don’t cook FOR people, but WITH people

As a starting point, the Skraldecaféen was launched in continuation of the idea that food is a right and that everyone should therefore have access to it. In 2015, the initiative won the “Aarhus takker award” with a justification of sustainability and combating loneliness among citizens in Aarhus municipality. The Skraldecaféen describes itself in their website: ” Skraldecaféen is no ordinary cafe – in fact, it’s no cafe at all. There are no cooks and no waiters to prepare and serve the food for you. On the other hand, it is quite free to join. In Skraldecaféen, we work based on the idea that everyone can contribute something. So that’s why we don’t cook FOR people, but WITH people. ”

The project expanded further in 2017 when pilots approached Skraldecaféen for a collaboration, resulting in the establishment of community fridges. These fridges, initially part of a pilot project, have now grown to 7, relying on partnerships with supermarkets. As a non-profit organization, the project’s dependence on various sources, including fundraising, workshops, and municipal support. Skraldecaféen boasts around 120 registered volunteers, with various roles such as drivers, sorting, storage management, and kitchen responsibilities.

People gather at 2 PM to collect food from free fridges, Photo: Qiqi Chen

Unlocking Supermarket Bins

Annbritt introduced the first store that they made an agreement with: It was one of the volunteers who was out in that store and found out it couldn’t be a dumpster dive because the containers were locked. She witnessed the supermarket disposing of a significant amount of food. Unable to ignore the waste, she approached them, expressing her concern. “Isn’t it a shame that you throw out all this food? Shouldn’t you be making an agreement with someone?” To her surprise, they responded positively, suggesting she try arranging such an agreement. The response was favorable, marking the beginning of their first partnership. “So far, we already have the agreement with 15 supermarkets.” Annbritt says.

In terms of food selection in the kitchen, volunteers often rely on a “mystery box” approach, assessing available ingredients and deciding on the menu for the day. The initiative has prevented a substantial amount of food waste, preventing approximately 24 tons of food waste during significant events like Christmas. “Sometimes we will receive 9 tons of pineapples, or 5 tons of bananas. Consuming the same categories of food in a week is normal here.” She says.

But how to tell whether the food is fine to eat? Volunteer Pearman answered while cooking the glogg for the people: “Use your instinct as a human being.” He picked up a tomato can, which expired 4 months ago. “The canned food usually can last much longer. All you needed is smell and taste, your instinct will tell you whether you can eat it.”

A tough journey with hope

For Annbritt, the awareness of the public needs to focus on the challenges they face, not just the positive aspects of reducing food waste. It’s not as easy as it may seem, and people need to understand the systemic issues they are up against.

The challenges faced by Skraldecaféen in dealing with donated food reveal the intricate bureaucratic hurdles imposed by government regulations. Initially, a simple paper indicating the donated items sufficed, but regulations evolved, requiring meticulous record-keeping. The process became laborious, with items unsuitable for the fridge needing to be meticulously crossed out. The regulatory complexities extend to transportation, where drivers must separate goods even from the same chain of stores due to strict tracking requirements.

She feels like the regulations should catch up with their innovative approach rather than holding them back. “I think the government is just trying to make us fit into the box, instead of trying to make the box fit us. Sometimes I feel like hitting my head against the wall, because there are so many challenges when doing it.” To improve the situation, she has had lunch with the Minister to report extreme actions by the control units. “I’m trying to work with that avenue. But you know, it’s slow, and it must go through the proper channels.”

Facing the government throwing a new obstacle that challenges the initiative, she used to want to give up. But the activist in her mind refuses to back down.“Every time they try to do something new, to make it difficult for us. I was like ‘I don’t want to do this anymore. I’m going to close it. ’But the other day I wake up and think ‘Hell no, I am still going to send a complaint, or even three,’ Annbritt laughed and says.

Navigating this challenging road, Annbritt remains hopeful about making a difference. “In comparison to many other countries, we face an abundance of rules and laws, and altering this complex situation requires a significant amount of time. The key is to persist and not give up in the meantime.”

                                                                                                                                                          *Interview with reports Maria Luz Nochez